Gulf Education and Social Policy Review
ISSN: 2709-0191
Pioneering research on education and social policy in the Gulf region.
Draped in Meaning: The Evolving Symbolism of the Black Abaya in Saudi Arabia
Published date: Feb 20 2025
Journal Title: Gulf Education and Social Policy Review
Issue title: Gulf Education and Social Policy Review (GESPR): Volume 6, Issue 1
Pages: 39 - 62
Authors:
Abstract:
This study explores the symbolism of the Black Abaya within contemporary Saudi society. This loose-fitting, full-length garment, prevalent as an item of women’s clothing in the Arabian Peninsula, has a long history as the standard modest dress for day-today wear among Muslim women. In recent years, academic and media attention toward the attire in the West has seen it come to serve as a symbol for Muslim womanhood sometimes associated with religious extremism, oppression, and personal agency. This interpretation has underscored the need for greater understanding and appreciation of the diverse cultural practices and traditions associated with the Abaya within Arab and Muslim societies. This study investigates how contemporary Saudi women interact with and explore the garment, especially their relationship with the traditional Black Abaya. This is pursued through undertaking ethnographic research consisting of interviews, observations, autoethnographic methods, and documentary analysis. The study notes the ambiguous and diverse interpretations of the Abaya as well as a trend toward embellishing the traditional Black Abaya form to better suit the needs of modern Saudi women for self-expression.
Keywords: Arab cultural identity, Black Abaya, Muslim women, Modesty, Saudi Arabian womanhood
References:
[1] Acemoglu, D., & Robinson, J. (2022). Non-modernization: Power–culture trajectories and the dynamics of political institutions. Annual Review of Political Science, 25(1), 323–339. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-polisci-051120-103913
[2] Al Saud, L. (2023). Ethnographic Study x The Black Abaya Project.
[3] Alajaji, T. (2018). Abaya and its aesthetic fashion role in Saudi Arabia [Master’s thesis]. GFC. Available at: https://gfc-conference.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/ALAJAJI-Tahani_Abaya-andits- Aesthetic-Fashion-Role-in-Saudi-Arabia.pdf
[4] Al-Munajjed, M. (1997). Women in Saudi Arabia today. St. Martin’s Press. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230373105
[5] Al-Qasimi, N. (2010). Immodest modesty: Accommodating dissent and the ‘Abaya-as- Fashion in the Arab GulfStates’. Journal of Middle East Women’s Studies, 6(1), 46–74. https://doi.org/10.2979/MEW.2010.6.1.46
[6] Alsanea, R. (2012). Girls of Riyadh. Mehta Publishing House.
[7] Altorki, S., El-Solh, C. F., & Altorki, S. (Eds.). (2015). At home in the field. In Arab women in the field: Studying your own society (pp. 49–68). Syracuse University Press.
[8] Anishchenkova, V. (2020). Modern Saudi Arabia. ABC-Clio. https://doi.org/10.5040/9798400686887
[9] Atkinson, A., Meadows, B., & Sumnall, H. (2024). ‘Just a colour?’: Exploring women’s relationship with pink alcohol brand marketing within their feminine identity making. The International Journal on Drug Policy, 125, 104337. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.drugpo.2024.104337
[10] Barnes, R., & Eicher, J. B. (1997). Dress and gender: Making and meaning. Berg.
[11] Barthes, R., Ward, M., & Howard, R. (1990). The fashion system. Vintage Books.
[12] Borck, T. (2023). Saudi Arabia: The kingdom of oil. Royal United Services Institute.
[13] Bouvier, G. (2017). Clothing and meaning making: A multimodal approach to women’s abayas. Visual Communication, 17(2), 187–207. https://doi.org/10.1177/1470357217742340
[14] Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3(2), 77–101. https://doi.org/10.1191/1478088706qp063oa
[15] Cioffoletti, M. (2019). The restructuring of Saudi arts and entertainment. The Arab Gulf States Institute in Washington. https://agsiw.org/the-restructuring-of-saudi-arts-and-entertainment/
[16] DeCoursey, C. A. (2017). Attitudes of professional Muslim women in Saudi Arabia regarding wearing the Abaya. Asian Culture and History, 9(2), 16–28. https://doi.org/10.5539/ach.v9n2p16
[17] Doumato, E. (2009) Obstacles to equality for Saudi women, Middle East Institute. Available at: https://www.mei.edu/publications/obstacles-equality-saudi-women (Accessed: 02 January 2024).
[18] El Guindi, F. (1999). Veil: Modesty, privacy and resistance. Berg. https://doi.org/10.2752/9781847888969
[19] Elsesser, K. (2023, July 11). Here’s how pink became a girly colour. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/ sites/kimelsesser/2023/07/11/heres-how-pink-became-a-girly-color/
[20] Entwistle, J. (2000). Fashion and the fleshy body: Dress as embodied practice. Fashion Theory, 4(3), 323–347. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270400778995471
[21] Fetterman, D. (2009). Ethnography: Step by step. SAGE.
[22] Gerwig, G. (Director). (2023). Barbie [film]. Warner Brothers.
[23] Gills, S., & Pellegrini, C. (2024). ‘In pink, goes with everything’: The cultural politics of Greta Gerwig’s Barbie. Feminist Theory, 0(0), 1–7. https://doi.org/10.1177/14647001241291402
[24] Goffman, E. (1956). The presentation of self in everyday life. Penguin Books.
[25] Halilovich, H. (2016). Behind the emic lines: Ethics and politics of insiders’ ethnography. In L. Voloder & L. Kirpitchenko Insider research onmigration and mobility (pp. 87–102). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315588773-6
[26] Jung, H., 2019. The evolution of social constructivism in political science: Past to present. SAFE Open, 9(1).
[27] Kaiser, S. (2012). Fashion and cultural studies. Bloomsbury.
[28] Lang, C. (2023, June 27). The long, complicated, and very pink history of barbiecore. TIME. https://time.com/6290606/barbiecore-trend-history/ [Accessed 19 November 2024].
[29] Layton, R. (2006). Structuralism and semiotics. In C. Tilley, W. Keane, S. Kuechler, M. Rowlands, & P. Spyer (Eds.), Handbook of material culture (pp. 29–42). Sage Publications. https://doi.org/10.4135/9781848607972.n3
[30] Le Renard, A. (2014). A society of young women: Opportunities of place, power, and reform in Saudi Arabia. Stanford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1515/9780804791373
[31] Lindholm, C. (2010). Invisible no more: The embellished Abaya in Qatar. In G. Vogelsang-Eastwood (Ed.), Central and Southwest Asia. https://doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch5044
[32] Long, D. (2005). Culture and customs of Saudi Arabia. Greenwood. https://doi.org/10.5040/ 9798400635724
[33] Lootens, E. (2024). What does the French ban on wearing abayas tell us about the control of Muslim women’s bodies? LSE. https://blogs.lse.ac.uk/gender/2024/02/01/what-does-the-french-banon- wearing-abayas-tell-us-about-the-control-of-muslim-womens-bodies/
[34] Magaldi, D., & Berler, M. (2020). Semi-structured Interviews. In V. Zeigler-Hill & T. Shackelford (Eds.), Encyclopedia of personality and individual differences (pp. 4825–4830). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-24612-3_857
[35] Marsden, H. (2023, August 30). France’s abaya robe ban in schools: Overreach from the state? The Week. https://theweek.com/news/world-news/europe/962228/frances-abaya-robe-ban-clothes-police
[36] McLeod, S. (2019). Social identity theory. Simply Psychology. https://www.simplypsychology.org/socialidentity- theory.html
[37] Phillips, J. (2014). The Abaya: A balancing act of fashion and modesty in the Arab Gulf Region. Academia.edu. https://www.academia.edu/3845089/The_Abaya_A_Balancing_Act_of_ Fashion_and_Modesty_in_the_Arab_Gulf_Region
[38] Quamar, M. (2016). Sociology of the veil in Saudi Arabia: Dress code, individual choices, and questions on women’s empowerment. Domes, 25(2), 315–337. https://doi.org/10.1111/dome.12085
[39] Rabolt, N. J., & Forney, J. C. (1989). Contemporary Saudi Arabian women’s dress. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 7(3), 22–32. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X8900700304
[40] Rapley, T. (2014). Sampling strategies in qualitative research. In U. Flick (Ed.), The Sage handbook of qualitative data analysis (pp. 49–63). SAGE. https://doi.org/10.4135/9781446282243.n4
[41] Reuters. (2018, November 5). Saudi Crown Prince says Abaya not necessary. Saudi – Gulf News. https://gulfnews.com/world/gulf/saudi/saudi-crown-prince-says-abaya-not-nessary-1.2190993
[42] Rossanigo, L. (2024). Evolving artscape: The role of the contemporary art market in Saudi Arabia’s socio-economic transformation [Master’s thesis, Sotheby’s Insitute of Art]. https://digitalcommons.sia.edu/stu_theses/205/
[43] Saunders, B., Kitzinger, J., & Kitzinger, C. (2015). Anonymising interview data: Challenges and compromise in practice. Qualitative Research, 15(5), 616–632. https://doi.org/10.1177/1468794114550439
[44] Shimek, E. D. (2012). The Abaya: Fashion, religion, and identity in a globalized world [Master’s thesis, Lawrence University]. https://lux.lawrence.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1019&context=luhp
[45] Tawfiq, W. A., & Ogle, J. P. (2013). Constructing and presenting the self through private sphere dress. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 31(4), 275–290. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X13504031
[46] Terry, G., & Hayfield, N. (2021). Essentials of thematic analysis. American Psychological Association. https://doi.org/10.1037/0000238-000
[47] Tseëlon, E. (2012). Fashion and the orders of masking. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 3(1), 3–9. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.3.1-2.3_2
[48] Vaismoradi, M., & Snelgrove, S. (2019). Theme in qualitative content analysis and thematic analysis. Qualitative Social Research, 20(3).
[49] van Geel, A. (2016). Separate or together? Women-only public spaces and participation of Saudi Women in the public domain in Saudi Arabia. Contemporary Islam, 10(3), 357–378. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11562-015-0350-2
[50] Wagner, H. (2008). Saudi Arabia. Infobase.
[51] Wendt, A. (1999). Social theory of international politics. Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511612183
[52] Witkin, S. (2012). An Introduction to social constructions. In: S. Witkin (Ed.), Social construction and social work practice: Interpretations and innovations (pp. 13–37). Columbia University Press.
[53] Yarwood, D. (1978). The encyclopaedia of world costume. Bonanza Books.
[54] Zaatari, Z., Arzu Ünal, R., & Joseph, S. (Eds.). (2023). Notes on sartorial representations of the Middle East. In Routledge handbook on women in the Middle East (pp. 622–610). Routledge, Taylor & Francis Group.